Our guide to the best eyebrow shape for your face (2025)

Never mind her chic new bob, it’s Lily Collins’s eyebrows that we’re obsessed with over here on the GH beauty desk. Perfect, Audrey Hepburn-esque arches that frame her face beautifully; the epitome of sophisticated, elegant, groomed… Imagine how different she'd look if they were thinly plucked, unkempt or, dare we say it, bleached?

Because that’s the thing about eyebrows: they (or their lacking) have the power to completely transform someone’s face. The right thickness and shape can make you appear more youthful, rested and even healthier.

What’s critical to take into account, though, is your face shape (and resist the urge to follow brow trends). What works on a round face might not look as flattering on a more angular face; it’s all about balance.

“Lily’s eyebrows have a soft, rounded curve and gentle arch, which suit her heart-shaped face,” explains Sherrille Riley, founder of Nails & Brows Mayfair, and Beauty Edit Mayfair. “This shape also works really well on square and oval faces as it gives a softness to their overall look,” she adds.

And it’s not just about knowing your face shape; it’s important to understand how to best create a brow shape, too. “A common mistake people make when shaping their brows is not knowing where they should start, arch and end,” explains Lauren Hogsden, brow expert and senior makeup artist at Benefit.

Lauren explains that the best way to work this out is through brow mapping: “You can easily brow map at home using a brow pencil or the end of a makeup brush,” she says. “Mapping your brows will give you the perfect guideline to understand where they need growth, where excess hair can be removed and where you need to fake it ’til you make it with brow products.”

How to brow map

1. Place your pencil vertically against the side of your nose and hold it in line with the inner corner of your eye. The pencil should not be over the eye area. Where the pencil’s outer edge hits the brow bone is where your eyebrow should start; pluck or fill as required (be warned that people often fall into the trap of over-plucking this area for fear of a monobrow).
2. Next, hold the pencil at an angle so that it lines up with the outer edge of your pupil. Again, where the pencil hits the brow bone is where to create your arch. The arch should be more (high/angular) or less (low/soft) pronounced depending on your face shape (see below). And you should never, ever, ever pluck above the brow; do not mess with your brows’ natural top line.
3. Finally, the end of the brow should be in line with the outermost corner of your eye. You can use the pencil to find this point or go by eye (as it were). If your natural brow falls short, fill with a fine pencil.

Now that you know how to shape and fill them, it’s about working out which shape will best suit your face.

How to find the right eyebrow shape for you

The golden rule is to go for a brow shape opposite to your face shape. For example, if you have a long face you should go for a low-lying arch and straight, elongated brows to add width to your face.

Best eyebrow shape for round faces

If you have a round face, where the length and width are roughly the same, you should go for a high arch to help open up and bring angles to the face. “High-arched brows can be high-maintenance as they need regular shaping, but it’s worth it because they add definition to the upper face,” says Sherrille. This shape will give structure and length to a round face, and ultimately help narrow it.

Best eyebrow shape for long faces

If the length of your face is almost double the width, you should go for straight and elongated brows with a low-lying arch to break up the face and add width, according to Lauren.

Best eyebrow shape for square faces

The height and width of a square face shape are usually roughy the same. “Square- or diamond-shaped faces often have angular elements that benefit from softening, which brow shape can help with,” says Sherrille. “For these face shapes I like what I call an ‘S-shaped’ brow. By this I mean it has a gentle wave or curve to it, with the arches kept soft.” And keep an overall undefined finish – avoid sharp and angled brows, adds Lauren.

Best eyebrow shape for rectangular races

Similar to a long face shape, the length of a rectangular face is almost double the width but with a more defined jaw. “As this face shape can be long but with a strong jawline, opt for fuller, non-structured brows to help reduce the appearance of the forehead,” explains Lauren. “Soft and slightly more curved arches will also help soften the jawline.”

Best eyebrow shape for triangular faces

If you have a wider jawline than forehead, you can soften features by adding volume and fullness to your brows. “Keep the arches low and curved, and don’t taper the tail of the brow; keep it full and angling outwards and slightly down,” says Lauren.

Best eyebrows for heart-shaped faces

Heart-shaped faces are wider at the forehead than at the jaw and can sometimes have a pointed chin, so slightly thicker brows can help balance these features (see Lily). “A soft, rounded arch and straighter brow is ideal,” says Lauren.

Best eyebrows for diamond-shaped faces

If you have a small forehead, pointed chin and wide cheekbones, you should keep the arches of your brows rounded to soften your diamond face structure. “Stay clear of an over-defined, over-angled finish on the brows, as this can look harsh on this face shape,” Lauren says.

Best eyebrow shape for oval faces

Oval face shapes tend to be the most symmetrical. “They’re often very balanced, so there’s no need to play with brow shape to manipulate the face,” says Lauren. “Stick to natural, soft-angled brows.” She recommends a slight arch and to ensure that your brows start and end on the same horizontal level (it’s okay if this contradicts finishing your brows in line with the outermost edge of your eye).

Shaping your brows at home

Now that you know your shape, read our guide on how to pluck your brows at home to put your knowledge in action.

And here are some of our favourite brow products to get you started…